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A plate with a partially cut burrito filled with savory ingredients, accompanied by fresh greens.

Dining

Crawfish-stuffed Beignets at Katie's

Local Dining at Authentic Establishments

Our neighborhood is dense with things to look at and experience and full of restaurants and other unique places to have breakfast, lunch ,and dinner if you want to experience New Orleans like you live here. You never know what you will find when you turn a corner. What is the worst that can happen? Someone will say hello.

While you are here, you may as well live. Happiness loves company.

All times from our front door are given in walking time unless otherwise noted.

A bronze statue of a girl in a dress stands in front of a historic building with French and American flags.

Degas House

30 Seconds

This is a small museum where the French painter Edgar Degas lived when he lived in New Orleans. The Degas House serves a Creole breakfast in the house's dining room on weekends and on weekdays in season.

The Flagpole

1 minute

This is a coffee shop and sno-ball stand with outdoor seating. There is usually live music on weekends. The owner is Cuban. He is very nice and he did an excellent job renovating this triangular building.

Old Road Coffee

1½ minutes

Back in the day, this used to be a neighborhood grocery store. After Katrina, it was a fence company. Now it is a coffee shop that serves baked goods from Maple Street Patisserie. I see the patisserie’s van pull up in the morning while I am walking the dog before the sun comes up.

Pagoda Café

3 minutes

This is a building that was originally built as a Chinese laundry in the 1920s. It looks like a Chinese pagoda. Prior to Katrina, it was a little reggae record store. There is a big Jamaican Rasta population in this part of New Orleans. A tree fell on the pagoda during Katrina. Now it is a breakfast and lunch joint with outside seating. It is run by socialists.

Leo’s Bread

3 minutes

Around about 2015AD, I met a young woman named Kate. She is a baker. I met her at the farmers’ market. She has expanded her career and tried different endeavors over the years. As fate would have it, her newest bakery is two blocks from our front door. Kate bakes the best bread in New Orleans and everything else is good, too.

Tastee

5 minutes

Home of the Kastleburger, which is a White Castle slider by another name. You can get it as a po’ boy. Tastee has the best apple fritters in New Orleans. I have been in this business since 2012. I don’t go to Tastee because it is just down the street. I go for the pastry and camaraderie.

Another triangular-shaped building with tables outside under the live oaks. This used to be a florist shop. I know the lady who grew up in the apartment upstairs many, many years ago. Her mother was the florist. Motor scooter clubs have breakfast here on weekends; otherwise, it is the usual collection of neighborhood regulars, dog walkers, duffers, school kids, and ne’er do wells congregating under the live oaks.

A green family restaurant with a sign that reads "Dizzy's" and outdoor seating.

There is no soul food in New Orleans. What people outside New Orleans associate with soul food is black Creole cuisine. It is distinctively different. First, you make a roux.

By Tuba Fats’ Square in the Historic Tremé. Get acquainted with the backatown and learn where the Backstreet Cultural Museum, the Candlelight Lounge, the Little People’s Place, and the Tomb of the Unknown Slave are. Get the Mediterranean breakfast plate and eat like a gypsy.

Toast

20 minutes

This is the best hamburger you can have for breakfast. There is no competition. They serve breakfast food, too. This is our neighborhood breakfast restaurant.

A woman approaches the entrance of a restaurant named "TOAST."

Le Ponce

20 minutes

This place is not even open as I write this, but I know it will be by the time you read this. It is located behind Café Degas and it is owned by the people who own Café Degas. They are hyperlocal and hyper-francophile. I know it is going to be good. Take my word for it. I live here.

This place is so old-school you will be having breakfast with judges, cops, codgers, tradesmen, and shrimpmongers. Betsy is dead due to a tragic murder, but the ladies who work there are an informal family who keep her legacy alive. George W. Bush had breakfast here after Hurricane Katrina. His signed letter thanking Betsy for her hospitality hangs next to her portrait in the dining room next to the TV.

Betsy's restaurant features a brown awning, blue canopy, and a person walking past a parked bicycle.

Café du Monde

30 minutes

I am talking about the one in City Park, not the one in the French Quarter. Get wise. There is no giant line of tourists waiting to get in and, instead of looking at the levee wall and the traffic on Decatur Street, you can look at the playground and the lagoon. City Park is a gem. Take the time to stroll up there.

Cafe du Monde sign featuring coffee and beignets, with outdoor seating visible.

Buffa’s

30 minutes

I am only recommending this for Sunday brunch, though Buffa’s does open 10:00AM-2:00AM every day. It used to be a 24-hour bar. I cannot wait for that to happen again. For Sunday Brunch, which starts before 10:00, the Some Like it Hot Jazz Band plays Dixieland jazz standards. The band members are all old ladies. They’re tops.

You Belong Here

The best New Orleans memories are made on Esplanade Avenue